drug - ! - The Beginner's Guide to Hash-Growing, Collection - Banned books
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THE BEGINNERS'S GUIDE TO HASH-GROWING
This book is the result of a couple of amateur gardeners coming across a
wealth of desktop publishing equipment, while enjoying the fruits of
their
labours. It is heavily based on other booklets we have read, some of
which
were so badly typed that we just had to do something about it.
Some of the inaccuracies of the old document have been removed,
Americanization (sic.) has been translated, and a few improvements have
been
made.
As you will discover, growing your own is not just a cheap way of
getting it.
You also ensure you are smoking ONLY pot, and obtain a great deal of
satisfaction from watching your plants grow from a tiny seed to a six-
foot
tall monster. It also does wonders for the balance of world trade.
You may have tried to grow hemp plants before, usually just by bunging a
few
seeds in a flower pot on the windowsill and crossing your fingers. You
probably got an anaemic thin plant about 2-3 feet tall which probably
gave you
a mild buzz. This book tells you how to grow 'em a little bigger than
that,
and how to increase the yield of the end result by two to four times.
An indoor garden will produce about 16 ounces of grass every six months.
The
gardens are really quite simple to build, the only technical knowledge
being
the wiring of a fluorescent tube. Basically, you just hang a fluorescent
light
that can be raised and lowered over some pots with a good soil mixture.
All
the materials you need are available at nurseries, garden shops and DIY
stores.
Homegrown grass is bright green, and tastes pure and clean. Once you
have
experienced the pleasure of working with nature and enjoying clean,
clear
highs, we doubt that you'll ever want to buy commercial grass again. If
you
really want hash oil or resin, you can follow the method in a book
called "Dr
Atomic" - soon to be plagarised, but there's nothing wrong with straight
grass. After all, it isn't costing you much.
Marijuana is an especially rewarding plant to cultivate because it is
one of
the fastest growing and most responsive plants. The Hemp plant (Cannabis
Satavia) is highly adaptive and grown all round the world. Under optimum
conditions, it may grow up to twenty feet high. If you're growing it
outdoors,
make sure you have a very high fence !
Such giants usually grow in tropical and semi-tropical zones, where they
flourish in the strong sunlight. There are male and female plants as
well as
hermaphrodites (that's male and female parts on the same plant).
INDOOR CULTIVATION
The Indoor Garden
Under artificial light, marijuana grows very fast; about 3-6 feet in
three
months. As you want the lights fairly close to the plants, you must
arrange
the lights so that their height can be altered. Hang the fixtures by a
rope or
chain from the walls or ceiling, or from the top of a frame at least 6
feet
high, constructed of 2" X 2"s. The bar for hanging clothes on in a
wardrobe
works quite well if it is high enough. Try to obtain an industrial type
light
fixture with a built-in reflector, so that no light is lost. If your
fixtures
are not equipped with reflectors, mount them on a sheet of white painted
plywood, make a reflector from white posterboard, or (at a pinch) sheets
of
white cartridge paper. Don't use aluminium foil (see later).
Ten watts of tube power for each square foot of growing area is adequate
for
healthy growth, but for a fast growing, lush crop, use at least 20 watts
per
square foot. The size and shape of your garden should correspond to the
light
system, so if the garden is 1 X 4 feet, use 2 four-foot tubes (80
watts). If
the garden is 8 X 2 feet, use 4 eight-foot tubes. One eight -foot tube
emits
more light than 2 four-foot tubes, so try to use as few tubes as
possible.
Marijuana can absorb up to 80 watts per square foot. Increasing the
amount of
light will increase the growth rate, and the quality of your plants.
The garden should be surrounded by reflective surfaces to contain all of
the
light. This will increase the efficiency of the lighting significantly
and the
light will be nearly uniform throughout out the garden until the
fixtures are
more than 2 feet high. A flat white paint is a better reflecting surface
that
aluminium foil or glossy white paint. Flat white has about the same
reflecting
capacity as aluminium foil, but reflects the light more uniformly. Paint
walls
flat white, and hang posterboard, white plastic curtain, thick white
paper
etc. on any open sides from the top of the fixture or frame. Sticking
white
card over the inside of your wardrobe is fine if you can find the white
card
for free. If your reflectors are the only enclosure for your plants,
make them
waterproof, and they will insure a healthy humidity by containing
moisture
evaporating from the soil and transpired by the plants.
Don't rely on training pets to stay out of the garden. Cats know damn
well
what the stuff is, and they may chew the leaves or consume the best
parts of
several plants. Dogs aren't much better either. Scratching in soil is in
and
animals' nature. After all, look at all that time you spent teaching
Tibbles
to use the litter tray. One moment of weakness can destroy months of
work (see
"cuttings" in case of dire emergency). If the garden is accessible to
pets,
surround it with chicken wire or heavy plastic. Ironmongers sell plastic
on
rolls, and inexpensive plastic dropcloths. Cover the floor with plastic
too.
It will protect your floor (and, if you're in a flat, your neighbours
ceiling)
from possible water damage. The last thing you want is the council
sniffing
around for leaks !
Artificial Light
The most effective and efficient artificial light for plant growth is
fluorescent light. There now follows a (very) brief physics lesson: The
white
light you see emitted by a fluorescent bulb consists of all the colours
of the
spectrum. The designation - Daylight, Warm White, Gro-lux, Optima, etc.
- give
a heavy clue to what particular combination of bits of the spectrum each
bulb
generates. Plants respond primarily to red and blue light, and for
healthy
growth, a combination of these two colours must be provided. Blue light
stimulates leaf growth, produces short, stocky stems, and encourages
robust
development. Red light is used for stem and root growth, and to promote
flowering.
The best fluorescent tubes are those that are specifically manufactured
to
give out light useful to plants, and have a distinct purple hue. Some of
these
are the Standard Gro-lux, Wide Spectrum Gro-lux, and plant Gro.
Sizes suitable for growing marijuana are 4,6, and 8 feet long. Regular
wattages for all of these tubes are about 10 watts for each foot of
their
length (80 watts for an eight-foot tube). They also come in higher
wattage
sizes. These are Power Twists, High Output (HO) and Very High Output
(VHO)
tubes, the largest being a 215 watt, eight-foot tube. These high output
tubes
are not always available, and tend to come a little on the expensive
side. You
only really need to use them in an exceptionally large garden.
Regular fluorescent tubes can be used if you can't get Gro-tubes. They
don't
work quite as well, but they will grow a perfectly healthy crop, and
usually
work out more than a little cheaper. Daylight, or Cool White tubes can
be used
in conjunction with either Natural White or traditional (plug-in) bulbs.
Normal bulbs and Natural White both provide the red component of light,
while
the others tend towards the blue end. Use them in a one to one ratio,
evenly
distributing the red and blue sources. Compared to the fluorescent tube,
the
traditional lightbulb is about one third as efficient, has a much
shorter
life, and can cause problems with it's excess heat. Not only might it
scorch
your plants, it could set the whole house up if you haven't supported
the
lights properly. But think what a wonderful time the fire-brigade would
have
....
Pots and Containers
Plants can be started in flower pots, milk crates, institutional size
tin
cans, polystyrene packaging, plastic jugs, or practically any container
that
is waterproof, at least 4" wide, and doesn't mind having a few holes
punched
in the bottom of it for drainage. Grow-bags are suitable, but will need
holes
punched in the bottom for drainage, and will probably need their pH
checked.
A single large box has the advantage of giving more room for the roots
to
spread out, but requires a lot more soil and makes moving, lighting and
rotating the plants impractical.
In it's natural state, marijuana sends down a tap root up to half the
length
of the plant. Apart from the fact that there aren't many three-foot deep
plant
pots about, trying to simulate natural conditions would be impractical
in
terms of weight, space, cost and labour.
The purpose of the soil (not necessarily ordinary dirt) is to provide
water
and nutrients, and to anchor the plant down. With strict attention to
proper
watering and fertilizing techniques, a six-foot plant can be grown in a
four-inch pot. The plant will, however, grow much better in a series of
successively larger pots - six to ten inch pots are a good median size,
and
aren't too heavy to move around when necessary.
Use as many pots as you can fit under the lighting system. The pots can
always
be thinned out if the plants become too crowded. Choose pots that are at
least
as wide at the top as the bottom, so that the soil can breath and dry
out more
easily.
Wash all cans, crates and pots etc thoroughly to remove any contaminants
and/
or insects. Boil clay pots for ten minutes to sterilize them. Some
plastic,
and most clay, utensils can be dampened and put in a microwave for ten
minutes
instead.
Soil Preparation
Marijuana grows best in a well-drained sandy soil or loam which is high
in
nitrogen and potash, at least medium in phosphorous, and which contains
little
or no clay. The pH should be between slightly acidic (6.5) and slightly
alkaline (7.5). If the pH is either too low or too high it will
interfere with
nutrient uptake. The pH is measured on a scale of 0 to 14 with 7.0
assigned as
neutral. pH is a measure of the relative concentrations of hydroxonium
ions
(H3O+) to hydroxide ions (OH2-). Several varieties of test kits and
meters can
be purchased from garden stores which test the pH and nutrient contents
of the
soil. Litmus paper (purple or blue) can be obtained from some chemists.
Many
agricultural schools or colleges will test soil pH and nutrient contents
for a
nominal fee.
Soil pH is raised to an acceptable level by adding slaked (hydrated)
lime,
limestone and marl. There is no set formula we can give for raising the
pH. At
a low pH it takes less time to raise the level by one point than it does
when
the pH is nearer to neutral (7.0). Sandy soils require less lime than
clay
soils to raise the pH. In general, if the soil tests acid, add 2 cups of
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